Characteristics of the Sport

Overview

Climbing is a relative new-comer on the sports scene.  Many people turn to climbing as a challenging recreational pursuit.  For others, climbing is a competitive sport.  Sport climbing is a universally recognised discipline that is rapidly gaining popularity.  Most competitions are conducted on purpose built walls, often in indoor gyms.  Sport climbing requires good technique, flexibility, power and power-endurance.

 

Training

Elite sport climbers may train 20-25 hours per week.  A large proportion of training has historically been done simply by climbing.  However, as the sport has become more competitive, modern-day climbers are turning to more varied programs.  To cover all the key elements of climbing (strength, endurance, flexibility and technique) training programs may involve a combination of climbing, gym sessions, yoga, pilates, swimming and running.  Recreational climbers tend to do a couple of session each week on the wall.

 

Competition

The Australian Sport Climbing Federation (ASCF) is the internationally recognised body responsible for the administration of sport climbing in Australia.  Official ASCF competitions are held at Regional, State and National level in a variety of age groups and categories.  ASCF-sanctioned events involve a ranking system that is used to select an Australian Team each year that competes internationally.

Sport climbing involves a number of different formats.  Common formats are described below:

 

Onsight	Involves a route of more than 15 minutes.  Competitors are given 6 minutes to view the route from the ground before climbing.  The competitor who reaches the highest point wins.  Regarded as the most skilled event.
Speed Climbing	Two climbers race each other up a 15-metre wall.  The climb is often completed in a matter of seconds.
Worked Routes	The aim is to reach the highest point.  The climb is usually very difficult.  Competitors have half an hour to practice before one attempt at the climb.  Practice and competition are usually on separate days.
Masters	A combination of onsight and worked route events.  The winner scores the greatest combined height from the two events.
Bouldering	The most popular format in Australia.  Involves climbing small surfaces (usually less than 4 metres high) without ropes.

 

Physical Characteristics

Climbers must be able to support their body mass using fingers, hands and legs in various positions as they move vertically up a surface.  A high power-weight ratio is advantageous.  Top climbers tend to have low body fat levels and are lightly muscled.

Common Nutrition Issues

Training Nutrition

Many of the sports nutrition practices in sport climbing have arisen through individual trial and error, anecdotal reports from other climbers and information provided in climbing magazines.  Until research is available which directly examines the nutritional needs of sport climbers, sports dietitians must use comparisons to other sports.  In order to maintain good health, cope with the demands of training and maintain a suitable body composition, sport climbers need to enjoy a varied diet which is based on nutrient-dense sources of carbohydrate (cereals, fruit, vegetables, sweetened dairy products), includes lean sources of protein (skin-free chicken, lean meat, low fat dairy products, lentils, legumes, fish, eggs) and good quality fats (vegetable oils, nuts, avocado). Energy-dense foods such as lollies, biscuits, cakes, and soft drink need to be included with care. Individual needs will vary according to training loads however, sport climbers tend to have moderate requirements for energy (kilojoules), carbohydrate and protein compared to endurance or strength athletes. 

 

Body Fat Levels

In order to achieve the high power-weight ratio useful in sport climbing, some sport climbers try to minimise their food intake in order to reduce body weight.  However, loss of body weight does not necessarily improve power-weight ratio.  An inadequate dietary intake can cause loss of muscle mass which causes power to decrease.  Consequently, the power-weight ratio ends up unchanged or lower despite a lower body weight. Consuming a diet too low in energy can also place climbers at risk of inadequate intakes of nutrients such as carbohydrate, protein, calcium and iron.  It can also cause fatigue and a weakened immune system.  Smart climbers avoid severe dieting and instead find the weight and body fat level that allows them to perform optimally while maintaining good health.

If loss of body fat is justified, a long term, balanced approach needs to be adopted in order to minimise any loss of muscle mass and power.  A consult with a sports dietitian is recommended to plan an individualised strategy.  However the following tips may help:

• Quick, short-term weight loss is usually due to loss of fluid, fuel stores and muscle mass.  A long-term approach is needed to lose body fat.  Most athletes should aim to lose about 1-2 kilograms each month.
• It is important to maintain a balanced intake.  Don't avoid whole food groups.
• Target foods which are high in kilojoules but provide few nutrients (lollies, chips. chocolate, alcohol, cordial, soft drink, cream, butter, margarine, oils).
• Keep a food diary to monitor what and when you eat - target the times when you eat because you are bored, thirsty or upset rather than hungry.
• Don't be too extreme - you are more likely to achieve long-term success if you include your favourite foods in reasonable quantities rather than abandon them altogether.

 

Competition Nutrition

Single climbs are usually too short to seriously tax fuel and fluid stores.  However, it is often necessary to complete practice sessions and/or heats before finals in a sport climbing competition.  Practice sessions and heats may be held on subsequent days or the day of competition.  There may be long waiting periods between climbs which can prolong the time spent at the competition venue.  Many climbers like to climb on an empty stomach as they feel quicker, lighter and more comfortable in stretched or contorted positions.  However, climbers who allow blood glucose and fluid levels to drop are unlikely to perform at their best.  Even light levels of dehydration have been shown to reduce skill and concentration and may also reduce power-endurance.  Dehydration can easily occur when competing in hot indoor venues or outside in direct sunlight. 

It is possible for climbers to compete hydrated, with adequate fuel stores and a comfortable stomach.  Some may find it useful to try a 'low residue' (low fibre) diet the day before competition to achieve a 'light', comfortable stomach without compromising fuel stores.   A low residue diet involves swapping to lower fibre options such as white bread, tinned fruit, low fibre cereals and liquid meal supplements.  This should be practiced well before competition to determine individual tolerance and is best done with the help of a sports dietitian.  On competition day, foods and fluids such as sports drink, yoghurt, liquid meal supplements, fruit, plain sandwiches, toast and sports bars are all good options for a meal 1-4 hours before competition. 

 

Recovery

After climbing, it is necessary to rehydrate, replace fuel stores and help the body recover from any damage that occurs during exercise.  For optimal recovery, the body needs fluid, carbohydrate, protein, vitamins and minerals. The body will eventually recover with your usual food and fluid intake. However, recovery time can be shortened when food and fluid are consumed immediately after exercise.  If there is more than an hour before your next meal and you are planning to climb again within 24 hours, choose from the following options:

 

Male Athlete (Target 60-80 g carbohydrate)	Female Athlete (Target 40-50 g carbohydrate)
*200 g fruit yoghurt + jam sandwich *200 g fruit yoghurt + cereal bar + 250 ml juice *200 ml liquid meal supplement + 1 large banana *sports bar + 500 ml sports drink *200 ml flavoured milk + cereal bar + banana 750-1000 ml sports drink	*200 g fruit yoghurt + cereal bar *200 g fruit yoghurt + banana *200 ml liquid meal supplement *sports bar *200 ml flavoured milk + cereal bar 750 ml sports drink

*indicates a valuable source of protein, vitamins and minerals in addition to carbohydrate. Additional fluid such as water, sports drink, juice, cordial or soft drink will also be necessary.

 

Travel

Elite climbing involves regular domestic and international travel.  This can pose a number of challenges to meeting nutritional needs.  Unusual foods, different standards of food hygiene, limited food availability and interference with usual routines can see athletes either gaining weight or failing to meet their nutritional requirements.  The following tips may help:

• Be clear about your nutritional goals and stay committed while travelling.
• Do some investigation to find out what to expect at your destination.
• Plan your accommodation with meals in mind.  Organising an apartment with cooking facilities gives you more control over your meals and can keep food costs down.  If you choose not to cook, make sure your accommodation is conveniently located near shops and restaurants.
• Take a supply of snacks with you so you always have access to something suitable.  Cereal bars, low-fat 2-minute noodles, sports drinks, breakfast cereal and rice cakes are good options to pack.
• Make good choices in restaurants.  Beware of hidden fat in restaurant meals.  Don't be afraid to ask the waiter about cooking methods and ingredients and request changes if necessary.  Add carbohydrate to meals with plain bread, plain rice, fruit or juice if necessary.

 

Supplements

Climbing is a relatively young sport with unique physiological requirements. Some climbers may be tempted to turn to supplements and ergogenic aids in order to improve performance.  While theoretically, there are some ergogenic aids which may have the potential to assist elite climbers, very few studies have been conducted specifically on sport climbing.  Climbers thinking about using any supplement need to have it assessed for doping safety and discuss the appropriate use with a qualified professional.

Case Study

Luke is a talented 15-year-old sport climber.  He originally started climbing for fun but now believes that with a little more training he could be quite successful at the sport.  Luke arranges to train with some of the better climbers at his club.  Many of these climbers are several years older than Luke and have some different ideas about food and nutrition.  Luke is doing a nutrition unit at school and finds that a lot of what he is learning goes against the information given by his climbing mates.  Luke becomes confused about what to eat so turns to the internet for information.  While there is a lot of information available, a lot of it contradicts each other.  It is difficult to know which information to believe.  Luke discusses his problem with his Health teacher.  They come up with a checklist to help assess the quality of information provided:

• Is the website produced or supported by a reputable organisation (e.g. government body, professional association, worldwide recognised health organisation)?
• Does the website provide information about the qualifications of contributors?
• Does the website back up claims with research published in quality journals (e.g. Journal of Applied Physiology, Medicine Science Sports And Exercise, International Journal of Sports Nutrition and Exercise Metabolism)?
• Is the website primarily designed to provide information as opposed to selling a product?
• Does the website provide a balanced coverage of the topic rather than make miraculous claims?
• Is the website updated regularly?

Luke uses this checklist to sift through the abundance of information available.  He finds websites from Sports Dietitians Australia, Nutrition Australia and the Gatorade Sports Science Institute most useful.  Luke is relieved to find that the way he is eating is suitable for a developing teenage boy.  He is now confident about questioning some of the eating practices of his climbing mates and even encouraged some of them to start reading more about nutrition on the net. 

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Written by Michelle Mineahnd and the Department of Sports Nutrition, AIS © Australian Sports Commission 2004

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