Characteristics of the Sport

Climbing in its broadest sense includes mountaineering, rock climbing, bouldering (on natural rock), and various other disciplines of climbing (usually on artificial rock). This fact sheet will focus on Sports Climbing, and its specific competition disciplines. 
Sports Climbing is an internationally recognised discipline that is rapidly gaining popularity. Many people engage in climbing as a challenging recreational pursuit.  For others, climbing is a competitive sport. In either case, sports climbing requires good technique, flexibility, power and power-endurance.

Training

Elite sports climbers may train 20-25 hours per week.  A large proportion of training has historically been done simply by climbing.  However, as the sport has become more competitive, modern-day climbers are turning to more varied programs.  To cover all the key elements of climbing (strength, endurance, flexibility and technique) training programs may involve a combination of climbing, gym sessions, specific strength work on the wall, yoga, pilates and aerobic training (e.g. running and swimming).  For recreational climbers, training may involve a few sessions per week on the wall.

Competition

Sports Climbing Australia (SCA), formed in 2005, is the internationally recognised body responsible for the administration of sports climbing in Australia. The SCA works to encourage all levels of climbers, from the beginner to the elite, and holds regular competitions for members to participate in.
There are three internationally recognised climbing disciplines:
1. Lead (or Difficulty) – competitions that are climbed either on lead or top rope, with the competitor belayed from below. The height is not limited;
2. Bouldering – involves climbing a series of boulders (usually less than 4-metres high), without the use of ropes. Bouldering is the most popular format of climbing in Australia; and
3. Speed Climbing – requires two climbers to race each other up a 15-metre wall. The climb is often completed in a matter of seconds.  

Physical Characteristics

Climbers must be able to support their body mass using fingers, hands and legs in various positions as they move vertically up a surface.  Therefore, a high power-weight ratio is advantageous.  Top climbers tend to have low body fat levels and good strength.

Common Nutrition Issues

Training Nutrition

In order to maintain good health, cope with the demands of training and maintain a suitable body composition, sports climbers need to enjoy a varied diet which is based on nutrient-dense sources of carbohydrate (wholegrain breads and cereals, fruit, vegetables, dairy products), includes lean sources of protein (skin-free chicken, lean meat, low fat dairy products, lentils, legumes, fish, eggs) and good quality fats (vegetable oils, nuts, avocado). Energy-dense foods such as lollies, biscuits, cakes, and soft drink should only be eaten in moderation. Individual needs will vary according to training loads; however, sports climbers tend to have lower requirements for energy (kilojoules), carbohydrate and protein compared to endurance or strength athletes.

Body Fat Levels

In order for climbers to achieve a high power-weight ratio, they need to be strong as well as lean. Therefore, weight loss may be a justified goal for some athletes. It is important, however, to recognise that weight loss in isolation may not necessarily improve power-weight ratio, and more importantly performance. An inadequate dietary intake can cause loss of muscle mass which causes power to decrease. A restricted dietary intake can also lead to an inadequate intake of nutrients such as carbohydrate, protein, calcium and iron, and cause fatigue and weakened immune function.
If loss of body fat is justified, a long term, balanced approach needs to be adopted in order to minimise any loss of muscle mass and power. Seeing a sports dietitian is recommended to plan an individualised strategy. For further reading in relation to weight loss, please see our ‘weight loss’ fact sheet, under ‘body size and shape’. 

Competition Nutrition

Single climbs are usually too short to seriously tax fuel and fluid stores.  However, it is often necessary to complete practice sessions and/or heats before finals in a climbing competition.  There may be long waiting periods between climbs which can prolong the time spent at the competition venue.  Many climbers like to climb on an empty stomach as they feel quicker, lighter and more comfortable in stretched or contorted positions.  However, climbers who allow blood glucose and fluid levels to drop are unlikely to perform at their best. Even light levels of dehydration have been shown to reduce skill and concentration and may also reduce power-endurance.  Dehydration can easily occur when competing in hot indoor venues or outside in direct sunlight.
It is possible for climbers to compete hydrated, with adequate fuel stores and a comfortable stomach.  Some may find it useful to try a 'low residue' (low fibre) diet the day before competition to achieve a 'light', comfortable stomach without compromising fuel stores.   A low residue diet involves swapping high fibre foods to lower fibre alternatives, such as white bread, tinned fruit, low fibre cereals and liquid meal supplements.  Please see our ‘low residue’ fact sheet for more information.  On competition day, foods and fluids such as sports drink, yoghurt, liquid meal supplements, fruit, plain sandwiches, toast and sports bars are all good options for a meal 1-4 hours before competition.

Recovery

After climbing (both in training and competition), it is necessary to rehydrate, replace fuel stores and help the body recover from the session.  For optimal recovery, the body needs fluid, carbohydrate, protein, vitamins and minerals. Recovery time can be accelerated by consuming this food and fluid within 30-60 minutes of the exercise session. The following options may help you choose a recovery snack:

*indicates a valuable source of protein, vitamins and minerals in addition to carbohydrate. Additional fluid such as water, sports drink, juice, cordial or soft drink will also be necessary.

Travel

Elite climbing involves regular domestic and international travel.  This can pose a number of challenges to meeting nutritional needs.  Unusual foods, different standards of food hygiene, limited food availability and interference with usual routines can see athletes either gaining weight or failing to meet their nutritional requirements. Please see our ‘travel’ fact sheet section for more information. 

Supplements

Climbing is a relatively young sport with unique physiological requirements. Some climbers may be tempted to turn to supplements and ergogenic aids in order to improve performance.  While theoretically there are some ergogenic aids which may have the potential to assist elite climbers, very few studies have been conducted specifically on sport climbing.  Climbers thinking about using any supplement need to have it assessed for doping safety and discuss the appropriate use with a qualified professional.

This fact sheet is based on National team athletes and is therefore specific to these athletes. Written by the AIS Sports Nutrition, last updated January 2010. © Australian Sports Commission.